The Royal Pontifical Basilica of San Francesco di Paola

by Silvia Semonella

Over the centuries, Naples has seen the passing of countless peoples and different rulers, each of whom left their mark, both on the culture and on the city's priceless artistic heritage.

In the early years of the nineteenth century, after a long period of Bourbon rule, the city went through a period of French rule, known, in fact, as the “French decade”.

The French decade under Murat

Joachim Murat, proclaimed King of Naples, arrived in the city and set about cleaning it up; in particular, he turned his attention to the so-called “largo di palazzo” (“palace square”, which lay in front of the Palazzo Reale, the royal residence): he cleared it of the criminals who frequented it, demolished the convents and buildings that crowded it, and ordered the construction of a great square, which was to be called “Gran Foro Gioacchino” (“Joachim's Great Forum”).

He also launched a competition to decide who would be given the work: it was won by the architect Leopoldo Laperuta, who built a broad colonnade with 38 Doric columns directly opposite the Palazzo Reale. The original design called for this great structure to enclose, at its centre, a circular area dedicated to public assemblies.

The return of the Bourbons

None of this was ever completed, because in 1815 Joachim Murat was driven out of Naples and the Bourbon crown was restored: Ferdinand I of Bourbon, therefore, as a token of gratitude to San Francesco di Paola for the reconquest of the kingdom (which he believed was owed to the saint's intercession) and as compensation for the destruction of the convents, ordered the building of a church dedicated to the saint at the centre of the colonnade, expressly requesting that the dome should not rise above the height of the Palazzo Reale.

A second competition established that the works would be directed by the architect Pietro Bianchi. The project began in 1817 and was completed in 1824, giving rise to a church in a clear neoclassical style, inspired by the Pantheon in Rome. However, it was only consecrated 12 years later by Pope Gregory XVI, who granted it the privilege of being the first church in Naples with a reversed altar (that is, facing the congregation).

The structure

The façade of the church is preceded by a portico supported by six Ionic columns, on which the dedication to the saint can be read. Two side pillars support the architrave; on the left stands a statue of San Francesco di Paola, on the right one of San Ferdinando di Castiglia and, at the top, a statue representing Religion.

In the colonnade below, meanwhile, statues have been placed representing the four cardinal virtues (prudence, justice, fortitude and temperance) and the three theological virtues (faith, hope and charity).

All around the perimeter of the church, moreover, stand thirty-four eleven-metre-high columns of Mondragone marble, topped with Corinthian capitals decorated with the lily, the flower typical of the Bourbon dynasty, interspersed with eight pillars of the same height.

The central body of the church, on the other hand, is circular in shape and is paved with wonderful polychrome marble.

Inside, we also find a canvas by Luca Giordano, while, facing the entrance, stands the apse, decorated with precious stones and lapis lazuli, designed by Ferdinando Fuga and moved here from the Church of the Santi Apostoli (Holy Apostles).

How to reach Piazza del Plebiscito

The square is easily reached by Metro Line 1 (connected to Piazza Garibaldi): simply get off at the Via Toledo stop and carry on to the end of the street of the same name, past Piazza Trieste e Trento.