“Va’ a vasà ‘o pesce ‘e San Rafèle” (Go and kiss Saint Raphael’s fish)

On 24 October, the Catholic Church celebrates Saint Raphael, the archangel known for his role in the "Libro di Tobia" (Book of Tobit). In Naples, there is a church dedicated to this saint in the Materdei district. Built in 1759 in the Baroque style, the church is adorned with eighteenth-century frescoes depicting the events described in the biblical story of Tobit and Sarah, as well as Saint Raphael as the "medico di Dio" (God's physician), a meaning derived from his name, since "Rafa'el" in Hebrew means "God has healed". The church of Materdei has borne witness for centuries to a folk rite linked to the story of Tobit and Saint Raphael, one that is not widely known. According to the Book of Tobit, during Tobit's journey along the River Tigris, he is attacked by a fish. The archangel Raphael, who accompanies him, urges him not to flee but to seize the fish by the head. Tobit follows the angel's advice, overcomes the creature and extracts its gall, heart and liver. He later marries Sarah in Ecbatana. Saint Raphael is often depicted holding fish, or assisting Tobit during his struggle with the fish, as illustrated in the 1625 painting by the artist Pieter Pietersz Lastman. In Naples, where sacred and profane traditions intertwine, there exists a custom that blends pagan elements with Christian devotion. Infertile women and girls hoping to find a husband would kiss a fish kept in a basket, symbolising the fish of Saint Raphael. The sea, seen as a source of fertility, and the fish, a Christian symbol, became linked through this custom. Despite the implicit sexual innuendo in the phrase "va’ a vasà ‘o pesce ‘e San Rafèle" (go and kiss Saint Raphael's fish), until a few decades ago it was used as a compliment for attractive girls (in Neapolitan, "pesce" — fish — is also slang for "penis"). This practice is also mentioned by an anonymous author in 1868 in the song "Italiella" (a nickname for young Italy), which refers to the wife of Victor Emmanuel who, unable to give an heir to the throne, turned to Saint Raphael and eventually managed to give birth to the future king. Although this ancient tradition is little known nowadays, it is likely that some people still keep it alive, or turn to Saint Raphael for help, just as they do with other saints. So why shouldn't single women give it a try? It might just be worth it!

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