The "Vera Pizza Napoletana" Association

For some time now, however, there has been a non-profit association dedicated to defending and protecting true Neapolitan pizza around the world, made according to the ancient traditions and customs of Naples: the Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana.

by Silvia Semonella

In 2017, Neapolitan pizza and the art of the Neapolitan “pizzaiuoli” (pizza makers) were declared a UNESCO World Heritage treasure by UNESCO.

The AVPN

The Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana (AVPN) was founded in 1984, under the patronage of the Chamber of Commerce, Industry and Craft of Naples.

Seeing the spread of the fast food phenomenon, as well as the huge and sometimes improper use of the name “true Neapolitan pizza”, the old pizza masters decided to found the association, complete with its own regulations, to defend and celebrate this thoroughly Neapolitan treasure. On that occasion, Antonio Pace decided to write the statute, with the help of veteran pizza masters, including his father, Vincenzo Pace, who had been practising the craft since the age of ten.

It is precisely Don Vincenzo who serves as president and doyen of the association, and on the art of pizza-making he has very clear ideas: “The secret of the pizza lies entirely in the dough - he says - The recipe? There isn't one, and I'll tell you why: ever since I was a boy, I learned that the dough changes according to the weather — whether it's cold, hot, dry or humid with the sirocco wind. For example, in cold weather you need warm water and little salt; in hot weather, more salt, which slows down the rising. These are things you decide in the evening, when you prepare the dough. It takes ten, twelve hours for a perfect rise… you can standardise the process, but it is undoubtedly experience that refines the art”.

Antonio Pace is the director and originator of the association's initiatives, supported by Antonio Aversano, head of the technical committee, the owner of the restaurant “Don Salvatore”, and by Lello Surace, the secretary, owner of “Mattozzi” at Piazza Carità.

Many pizza makers, from Naples and beyond, have joined the association: among the most famous are “Ciro a Santa Brigida”, “Salvatore” on the Riviera di Chiaia, with master Salvatore Jossa, “Don Salvatore” in Mergellina, “Lombardi” at Santa Chiara, “Ciro” at Borgo Marinari, “Il Ragno d'Oro” at Vomero, the “Alba” pizzeria at Piazza Immacolata, “Capasso” at Porta S. Gennaro, “Cafasso” on via Giulio Cesare, and many others.

The initiatives

The association promotes many initiatives: training courses for pizza masters, the establishment of a technical committee qualified to assess the organoleptic and visual characteristics of the products, as well as the compliance of new members with the rules, and the founding of the “Club Amici della Pizza” (Friends of Pizza Club), an external oversight body made up of the association's supporters and consumers, tasked with ensuring the statute and rules are respected, and reporting to the technical committee any breaches that may even lead to expulsion.

The D.O.C. mark

The DOC mark, meanwhile, was presented at the international conference on 15 September 1997, at the Maschio Angioino castle. Besides protecting a local dish, the registration of the mark also served to promote the region's food and agriculture businesses. Indeed, the regulations require the exclusive use of Campanian products: from extra-virgin olive oil to buffalo mozzarella, right down to San Marzano tomatoes.