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Oliva, Concettina ai Tre Santi: a culinary miracle in the Rione Sanità
Ciro is a 27-year-old lad, raised in the Rione Sanità, the very neighbourhood where the famous Totò was born. And it's remarkable how, today, the district is renowned not only for this world-famous comic actor, but also for the pizza of Concettina ai Tre Santi, a true culinary masterpiece.
by Alessia Giannino
Concettina ai Tre Santi is one of the best pizzerias in Naples, and its success is thanks to Ciro Oliva and his passion.
Although it's hard to catch a glimpse of the sea or Vesuvius from Ciro Oliva's pizzeria, customers are never in short supply: in fact, you'll often have to brave a long queue just to get a seat. His father, Antonio, takes care of the dough, while Ciro runs the pizzeria, having the most direct contact with the customers.
In a tough neighbourhood, where talk of muggings, robberies and gunshots is not uncommon, Oliva has created what could be called a culinary miracle. People don't mind having to make their way down Via Fontanelle — what matters most is being able to savour one of the finest pizzas in Naples: a light dough and top-quality, carefully sourced ingredients. Mozzarella, cured meats, oil, tomatoes and vegetables are all chosen with great care. In many cases, the produce is also selected from among the Slow Food Presidia and the Alliance of Taste.
At Concettina ai Tre Santi, tradition blends with innovation; indeed, one of the most popular pizzas among customers is the one with Neapolitan ragù: a margherita topped with ragù, ricotta, Parmigiano Reggiano aged two years, and basil. This is just one of the many pizzas on the menu, which is a true celebration of flavours and colours.
Oliva has received numerous awards and accolades, and he has also launched the initiative of the “pizza sospesa” (suspended pizza — just like the tradition of the suspended coffee), which allows customers to pay for an extra pizza for someone who can't afford one.
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