The street of nativity scenes, San Gregorio Armeno

Christmas has now arrived and every Neapolitan knows that, during this period, there are areas of the city that become almost impassable: one of these is certainly San Gregorio Armeno, the famous street in the historic centre that, during the Christmas period, is literally besieged by tourists and locals alike.

by Silvia Semonella

San Gregorio Armeno is also known as “the street of the nativity scenes”, precisely because here you find one after another stalls and workshops of artisans and nativity-scene makers who, by now, have become a city institution.

A very special street

Via San Gregorio Armeno is the street that joins, at right angles, two ancient decumani (main straight streets of Roman origin) of Naples: via dei Tribunali (the upper decumanus) and via San Biagio dei Librai (the lower decumanus, or Spaccanapoli, meaning “Naples-splitter”); it is therefore right in the heart of the historic centre, a short distance from the Duomo (Cathedral).

Originally the street was named after San Liguoro (Saint Liguorius), but it was later decided to rename it in honour of the nearby church dedicated to San Gregorio l’Illuminatore, Patriarch of Armenia (Saint Gregory the Illuminator).

It was here that the nuns carrying the coffin of Santa Patrizia (Saint Patricia) suddenly stopped, as if drawn by a divine call.

The art of the nativity scene

The art of the Neapolitan nativity scene has its roots in pagan times, when votive offerings consisting of terracotta figurines were made to the goddess Ceres, to ensure fertility.

Over the centuries, the custom was renewed: to Santa Patrizia, protector of Naples, and to San Gregorio, figurines depicting the man or woman who had been granted a favour were offered as ex-votos. Around the church, therefore, countless artisan workshops sprang up, specialising in making figurines with human features, and the tradition has continued right up to the present day.

The Ferrigno family, with its various branches, owns several workshops on San Gregorio Armeno. Marco is one of the best-known master craftsmen, together with Genny Di Virgilio, a member of another celebrated family of nativity-scene artists.

On San Gregorio Armeno you can find shepherds for every taste: the classic nativity (the Madonna, Saint Joseph and the Baby Jesus), whose prices can vary according to the size and uniqueness of the figurine, every type of tradesperson, from the butcher to the pizza maker, right through to contemporary figures too, such as Napoli football players or even Chiara Ferragni and Fedez.

In Naples, everyone has the chance to end up in the nativity scene!

How to get there

The most convenient way to reach San Gregorio Armeno is by metro: from Piazza Garibaldi, take Line 1 to the Museo stop, then walk down Via Duomo; more or less the same route can be taken by getting off at the Cavour stop on Line 2 (also departing from Piazza Garibaldi).