Nennella: the most famous trattoria in the Spanish Quarters

Nennella is the temple of Neapolitan culinary tradition. To call it the most famous trattoria in the Quartieri Spagnoli (Spanish Quarters) is an understatement: it is, in fact, the most famous in all of Naples.

by Alessia Giannino

Nennella is the temple of Neapolitan culinary tradition.

To call it the most famous trattoria in the Spanish Quarters is an understatement: it is, in fact, the most famous in all of Naples.

It's frequented by huge numbers of people every day: students, families, tourists, office workers... The clientele is as varied as can be, precisely because it offers excellent traditional Neapolitan dishes at truly modest prices.

History

Nennella's story begins in the post-war years, when Naples was a place where people made do, and Elisabetta Vitiello, known, in fact, as Nennella, opened a tiny refreshment stand to make ends meet. There she sold whisky and coffee and prepared “marenne” (packed lunches) for the rubbish collectors. Some time later she added hot dishes and, from the small premises in Via Teatro Nuovo, moved to a little room with four tables and an open kitchen. The family gradually grew, and Pasquale was born; he put the whole family to work until 2005, the year he handed the business over to his wife Concetta and his daughter-in-law Rita. To this day the whole family is still involved in the trattoria, which now seats more than 120 covers across three indoor rooms and a covered outdoor area.

The tradition

What makes Nennella special is that the menu changes every day according to the season and what the market has to offer. The trattoria's must-try is pasta and potatoes, but the starters, potato croquettes, arancini and grilled vegetables are also excellent. As for the other first courses, everything depends on what's in season: pasta and beans, pasta and lentils, spaghetti with seafood, penne with fresh tomato and basil, beans and escarole, lasagne and so on. For the main course, the choices range from salt cod, battered and fried anchovies, roast chicken, pork ribs, mozzarella and meatballs, all accompanied by various side dishes, including our inimitable friarielli (Neapolitan broccoli rabe) and aubergine parmigiana. In short, you're spoilt for choice.

It's a welcoming, friendly place, very down-to-earth, where 15 euros will get you everything from starter to fruit. Don't expect gourmet plates, but plenty of good home-style dishes, prepared with heart. The atmosphere that comes together every day at Nennella's is that of the most traditional and genuine trattoria in Naples — a little folkloric, but always Neapolitan through and through.

Address:
Vico Lungo Teatro Nuovo, 103/104/105