The Royal Pontifical Basilica of San Francesco di Paola

by Silvia Semonella

Over the centuries, Naples has seen the passing of many different peoples and rulers, each of whom left their mark, both on the culture and on the city's priceless artistic heritage.

In the early years of the nineteenth century, after a long spell of Bourbon rule, the city went through a period of French domination, known, in fact, as the “decennio francese” (French decade).

The French decade under Murat

Gioacchino Murat, proclaimed King of Naples, arrived in the city determined to clean it up; in particular, he turned his attention to the so-called “largo di palazzo” (the open square in front of the Royal Palace, the king's residence): he cleared it of the criminals who frequented it, demolished the convents and buildings crowding the area, and ordered the construction of a great square, which was to be called “Gran Foro Gioacchino”.

He also held a competition to decide who would carry out the works: it was won by the architect Leopoldo Laperuta, who built a broad colonnade with 38 Doric columns right in front of the Royal Palace. The original design called for this grand structure to enclose, at its centre, a circular area dedicated to public assemblies.

The return of the Bourbons

None of this was ever completed, because in 1815 Gioacchino Murat was driven out of Naples and the Bourbon crown was restored: Ferdinand I of Bourbon, then, as a gesture of thanks to San Francesco di Paola for the reconquest of the kingdom (which he believed to be thanks to the saint's intercession) and as compensation for the destruction of the convents, ordered a church dedicated to the saint to be built at the centre of the colonnade, expressly requesting that its dome should not rise above the height of the Royal Palace.

A second competition established that the works would be directed by the architect Pietro Bianchi. Building began in 1817 and was completed in 1824, producing a church in a clear neoclassical style, inspired by the Pantheon in Rome. However, it was only consecrated 12 years later by Pope Gregory XVI, who granted it the privilege of being the first church in Naples with a reversed altar (that is, facing the congregation).

The structure

The façade of the Church is preceded by a portico supported by six columns in the Ionic style, on which the dedication to the saint can be read. Two side pilasters support the architrave: to the left stands a statue of San Francesco di Paola, to the right one of San Ferdinando di Castiglia, and at the top, one representing Religion.

In the colonnade below, meanwhile, statues of the four cardinal virtues (prudence, justice, fortitude and temperance) and the three theological virtues (faith, hope and charity) have been placed.

All around the perimeter of the church, moreover, rise thirty-four columns of Mondragone marble, eleven metres high, each topped with a Corinthian capital decorated with the fleur-de-lis, the flower typical of the House of Bourbon, interspersed with eight pilasters of the same height.

The central body of the church, meanwhile, is circular in shape and paved with wonderful polychrome marbles.

Inside, we also find a canvas by Luca Giordano, while opposite the entrance stands the apse, decorated with precious stones and lapis lazuli, designed by Ferdinando Fuga and moved here from the Church of the Santi Apostoli.

How to reach Piazza Plebiscito

The square is easily reached by Metro Line 1 (connected to Piazza Garibaldi): simply get off at the Via Toledo stop and continue to the end of the street of the same name, passing Piazza Trieste e Trento.