Discover Vicoletto Sant'Arpino: History and Beauty of Naples

Few know the endless stories tied to one of Naples' most characterful little alleys, Vicoletto Sant'Arpino, tucked away in the heart of Via Chiaia.

In the 1700s, on the spot where the old wall of Porta di Chiaia (Chiaia Gate) once stood, it was decided to build some low dwellings carved out of that ancient gate wall. Despite constant protests from the Theatine fathers who lived in the Basilica of Santa Maria degli Angeli at Pizzofalcone, they were eventually granted permission to build an imposing building, which was later purchased by the Caravita Sanchez de Leon family, Dukes of Sant'Arpino.

Over the years, that estate passed from hand to hand and, for a considerable length of time, belonged to the Gas Company, which in turn sold off some portions of the building. Even today, a little further along between Via Santa Caterina and Via Filangieri, you can see a large building on the right as you head down towards Piazza dei Martiri, with a grand sign dating back to 1880.

Outside, the two working gas lamps still stand, the last remaining in the city of Naples. Today, the building is known as Palazzo Sant'Arpino, just like the picturesque little alley that takes its name from that very palace — Vicoletto Sant'Arpino, one of the most characterful little alleys in the city of Naples, with its distinctive staircase leading to the back of the building.

Today, in that alley and on those stairs, you'll find small businesses, workshops and artists displaying their work, creating one of the most beautiful scenes in the city centre, evoking the Naples of the early 1800s. Don Alfonso was an important man, a true gentleman and a fine caretaker. He was always ready to smile and help the residents of the building every day, and could often be found carrying heavy bags for the older ladies who lived there.

And that's how, day after day, he managed to save up enough money to give his wife their honeymoon after a full 40 years of marriage. Don Alfonso told me all this while, with pride, he showed me around his modest and charming home inside that building. He took one of the boxes containing precious jewels from a drawer, and with one eye checked whether his wife Nunzia was coming, while with the other eye, filled with emotion, he showed me the beautiful ring he had bought for his wife for the very first time.

Don Alfonso and his wife Nunzia, both born into poverty, had moved to the city as young people. Then came a lifetime of work and their six children, all settled now, as he always says. With the little money saved over the years, he was finally able to give his wife their first honeymoon and that ring. For the first time, they were leaving Naples, even if only for a few days, to visit Venice — a place they had heard about since they were children, but had never been able to visit.

Just before saying goodbye, Don Alfonso told me about the underground passages of Palazzo Sant'Arpino, where a long tunnel once led the nobility all the way to the foundations of the Basilica of San Francesco di Paola in the nearby Piazza del Plebiscito. It was one of his dreams to restore that old passage, make it accessible again, and connect one of the city's most beautiful churches to one of Naples' most characterful little alleys.

Now, Don Alfonso is no longer with us. Every so often I think about this incredible idea of his, and I wonder if one day, with the help of this city's talented young people, it might become reality, bringing back to life a truly extraordinary underground Naples.