The Cathedral of Amalfi: pearl of the Mediterranean

The history of Amalfi's main place of worship dates back a long way, and the cathedral's original design has been completely transformed over the centuries, gradually absorbing various styles, from Romanesque to Rococo.

by Chiara Scaramella

The symbol and attraction of Amalfi, pearl of the coast that bears its name, is undoubtedly the splendid Cathedral that stands proudly in the centre of the town, precisely in Piazza del Duomo.

The history of Amalfi's main place of worship dates back a long way, and the cathedral's original design has been completely transformed over the centuries, gradually absorbing various styles, from Romanesque to Rococo. The church we see today in the heart of Amalfi is the result of the joining together, around 1176, of two churches, and it was built on that exact spot both for its central position and for how easily it could be defended.

The two original churches

The older of the two original little churches, called the Chiesa del Crocifisso (Church of the Crucifix), dates back to the 9th century and was built on the remains of an ancient palaeo-Christian church from the 6th century. The second was instead built in Romanesque style next to the first at the behest of Duke Mansone I, around 987, and was dedicated to St Andrew the Apostle. The union of the two buildings, each with three naves, led to the formation of a single great cathedral with six naves, one of which, however, was removed around 1266 to make way for the construction of the splendid Cloister of Paradise. After the building was enriched with remarkable Baroque decorations, during the period of the Counter-Reformation the two churches separated again, leading to the reduction of the right-hand nave, which had previously served as the point of connection.

Structure

The cathedral's façade dominates the square from the top of a monumental staircase, and even at first glance you can notice the difference between the styles of the two churches: the older one appears bare and devoid of decorative elements, while the second is a continuous succession of Moorish-style arches and Byzantine decorations. The remains of the pediment of the palaeo-Christian church can be seen between the newer church and the ancient bell tower. The latter, like the whole building, shows the historical and cultural layering that took place in this area. Indeed, it is made up of two parts: the main body, built in the 12th century, decorated with corner columns and mullioned windows with two and three lights (on the second and third floors respectively), and the upper part, built in 1276, formed by a central core surrounded by corner turrets made of yellow and green majolica tiles, which highlight the Moorish influence on the building.

The façade of the Romanesque church was built by Errico Alvino in the 19th century, following the collapse of the original façade, and is in neo-Gothic style, with, at the top, a splendid Byzantine-style mosaic depicting Christ of the Apocalypse, flanked by the twelve apostles, and the symbols of the four Evangelists. The entrance is preceded by a corridor, marked by arches and columns, which connects the two sacred buildings and the Cloister of Paradise. Access to the building is through a portal in the centre of the façade, above which is a lunette containing a fresco by Morelli. Clearly Byzantine in style, it comes from Constantinople: it was brought to Amalfi as a gift from an Amalfitan nobleman.

Crossing the threshold of the cathedral, it is impossible not to be overwhelmed by the richness and magnificence of the Baroque decorations. The interior is laid out in the shape of a Latin cross, with a transept and apse, divided into three naves separated from one another by two rows of pillars decorated with inlaid marble. The ceiling is coffered and embellished with typical gilded Baroque decorations. Along the central nave, the observer's eye, although “distracted” by the splendid shapes and decorations that characterise the whole church, cannot help but focus on the main altar, itself in Baroque style, surmounted by a wonderful canvas depicting the martyrdom of St Andrew and flanked (on the right-hand side) by a splendid wooden crucifix from the 13th century. In the left nave are kept the reliquary statues of the patron saint, the Mater Dolorosa and the dead Christ, while the relic of St Andrew is housed in the Chapel of Reconciliation, at the end of the nave.

From the basilica you can access the crypt. This was built around 1203 at the wish of Cardinal Pietro Capuano, who wanted to create a place to house the body of St Andrew, brought from Constantinople following the Fourth Crusade. The crypt is built with a succession of cross vaults, which, together with the walls, were frescoed during the 17th century by Neapolitan artists with images depicting scenes from the life of Christ. One of the frescoes, created by the celebrated Aniello Falcone, depicts the arrival of St Andrew's body at the cathedral: it is, in fact, still kept within the walls of the crypt and lies buried in the tomb at the centre of the room. Since 1304, moreover, on various religious feast days, the saint's tomb has also been the setting for the famous miracle of the manna, which consists of the secretion of an oily liquid from its surfaces.

The Cloister of Paradise

A not-to-be-missed spot during a visit to the Amalfi Cathedral complex is, without doubt, the Cloister of Paradise, connected to the cathedral and the entrance to the Diocesan Museum of Amalfi. The architectural complex consists of a four-sided portico overlooking a small garden.

The portico is covered by cross vaults, while on the outside, intertwined pointed arches, typically Moorish, open up, their weight carried down onto slender pairs of small columns. The structure was built in 1268 by Archbishop Filippo Augustariccio as a burial place for the Amalfitan nobility; indeed, numerous chapels dedicated to aristocratic families and figures can be found along the walls. Among these, one of the most beautiful is certainly the Chapel of the Crucifixion, which houses a spectacular fresco from the school of Giotto depicting the episode of the crucifixion itself. Along the colonnade, set against the walls, various artefacts are kept: among the most important is a sarcophagus of Greek origin, decorated with the abduction of Proserpina, dated to the 4th century BC, probably brought to the cathedral from the not-too-distant town of Paestum.

Many other artefacts and works of art that were once in the cloister have been moved to the adjoining Basilica del Crocifisso (Basilica of the Crucifix). This latter is the oldest part of the Amalfi Cathedral complex and today houses the heart of the Diocesan Museum. The interior, laid out in three naves, appears bare, a stylistic choice resulting from a restoration that chose to remove all the Baroque and Rococo decorations that had been added, bringing the ancient Romanesque structure back to light.

The cathedral is therefore more than just a place of worship: it symbolises how such an ancient building has, over time, absorbed the styles and trends of various historical and artistic periods. And so, both for its magnificence and for all the history it represents, it is an essential stop for anyone visiting the town of Amalfi.

Info
OPENING HOURS - March-June: 9am-6.45pm; July-September: 9am-7.45pm;
November-February: morning 10am-1pm, afternoon 2.30pm-4.30pm
TICKETS: 3 euros for entry to the Church, Museum and Cloister of Paradise.