The Galleria Umberto I, symbol of Naples' Risanamento

It stands between Piazza Trieste e Trento and Via Toledo, where once there were only parallel streets connected by small alleyways that did not enjoy a good reputation: here, in fact, taverns and houses of ill repute were located, where crimes of every kind were committed.

by Alessia Giannino

The Galleria Umberto I is what is today considered the principal work of Naples' Risanamento (urban renewal).

It stands between Piazza Trieste e Trento and Via Toledo, where once there were only parallel streets connected by small alleyways that did not enjoy a good reputation: here, in fact, taverns and houses of ill repute were located, where crimes of every kind were committed. By the end of the nineteenth century decay had reached its peak, and in those alleys six-storey buildings had been erected where, it must be said, strict hygiene was hardly the rule. This led to the spread of cholera, and only when the situation began to spiral out of control did the government think of stepping in.

The Law for the Risanamento

In 1885 the law for the Risanamento of Naples was approved, and thanks to it, the area of Santa Brigida was completely reclaimed. The chosen project was that of engineer Emmanuele Rocco, later taken up by Antonio Curri and finally expanded by Ernesto di Mauro: it called for the construction of a four-armed gallery, intersecting in an octagonal crossing covered by a dome. To this end, on 1 May 1887 all the surrounding buildings were demolished, except Palazzo Capone, and a few months later work began.

The Galleria Umberto I was inaugurated three years later, precisely on 19 November 1890. From the very start it was considered an important commercial hub, thanks also to its proximity to Via Toledo, Via Santa Brigida and Via Medina. Among other things, it was built in a strategic position, surrounded by other important monumental works: the Teatro San Carlo, Piazza Plebiscito, the Palazzo Reale (Royal Palace) and the Maschio Angioino (Angevin Castle).

The interior

Inside the Galleria Umberto I we can admire the entrances of four buildings structured across three floors. The building also housed, for over fifty years, the sciuscià (shoe-shine boys), the city's shoe-shiners: in fact, some time ago, having one's shoes polished inside the gallery was a custom among the chic gentlemen of Naples.

Today this ritual has almost disappeared, although it is still possible to find a veteran sciuscià (shoe-shine man), who has remained precisely to carry on the tradition.

Even nowadays, the Galleria Umberto I remains, also thanks to its location, an important commercial landmark, attracting not only local residents but also, and above all, tourists.